Dorohoi
Dorohoi is a rural village about 160km from Iasi; its
population at present is in the neighborhood of 30,000, most of which
lives in the modern (i.e. Ceaucescu-era) apartments in the new section
of the village. The older area, in which all the photographs below
were made, does not appear to have changed much in the past century.
The pictures are intended to show something of the life in Dorohoi, so
it concentrates on the houses in which people live.
Most of these are small houses, and most have an adjacent
well, so that it seems that piped water is a relative innovation in
Dorohoi. The garden around most houses is used for kitchen gardens,
mostly for cabbages and maize (you can see this in some of the
pictures). Many people raise chickens, ducks, and geese, and when I
visited, these were wandering about untended; there must be coops for
them in cold weather, but I saw none. Some streets are paved, some are
not.
Dorohoi is very green and leafy. It has a newly renovated
public library that I wish I could have photographed; I didn't see it
until I was on the way to the railway station to leave.
Unemployment in Dorohoi stands at about 50%. The sole employer
of any importance is a (clothing) confection factory, now in private
hands (of an absentee Arab owner, as I was told). The railroad
mainline Bucharest - Iasi - Kiev passes through Dorohoi; I travelled
here from Iasi on a local train that took four hours to make the trip.
Before the Shoah, the population of Dorohoi was largely
Jewish, and was reasonably prosperous. The building which housed the
main synagogue is now an orphanage for girls, which was characterized
to me by a Romanian clinical psychologist who works with such
institutions in Iasi, and who recently visited the Dorohoi house, as
"the worst I have ever seen", from the point of view of the facilities
and the level of care given to the children. There are two Jewish
cemeteries in the village, called the Old cemetery (burials until
1902) and the New cemetery. I visited the latter, seeking the grave of
my great-grandfather, Shlomo Abramovici, who died in 1902, the cutoff
year, but failed to find it. It is possible that he is in the Old
cemetery, but that was inaccessible to me. I did find several other
Abramovici headstones and photographed them (see below); Abramovici is
a sufficiently common surname that there is no assurance of any
connection of these people with our family. It should be noted that the
cemeteries here and in Iasi are reasonably well attended, not overgrown
and neglected as is the case in every Jewish cemetery I saw in Poland.
There is, I have been told, a small Jewish community in Dorohoi,
although I saw no evidence of it.
I should apologize for the quality of the photographs. It
rained nearly all the time I was in Dorohoi; I am thankful that I was
able to photograph at all.
Click on any of the pictures to see a larger version
The three houses below are different. There are in the village several
houses of two storeys, as at the left. The house in the middle is under
construction, and is definitely the most well-appointed, even
luxurious, that I saw in Dorohoi; it belongs to the chief of police,
which, in a better-ordered society, would raise some questions about
the source of financing. The house at the right is adjacent to the
railway station, and is in secondary use as a buffet/restaurant.
Here are some street scenes. At left is a general
view taken from a vantage point in the village; you can see some of the
newer apartment dwellings in the distance. In the center is a group of
people husking maize. At the right are some kids, off to school.
Two lanes. In the center picture you can see a well; in the picture to
its right is a householder drawing water from it, so that it would seem
that, in this neighborhood at least, there is no piped water.
At left, the Central Bus Station, which is in
deplorable condition. The approach road is pocked with potholes so deep
that only busses can negotiate them. At the right is the adjacent row
of shops, mostly bars.
At left, the hotel in Dorohoi, newly renovated,
modern, comfortable, and very well appointed, situated at the edge of a
large and well-tended park; it leaves nothing to be desired. Center,
the hotel's barbecue pit; note the chickens and turkeys conveniently
located. At right, another group of the hotel's fowl inventory; for
what it's worth, the plant behind the birds is Ricinis Comunis
(makes castor oil).
Left, the home of the family that holds the keys to
the New Jewish Cemetery, located directly opposite the cemetery gate.
Right, the cemetery office and funeral parlor.
At left, the monument at the Cemetery office, bearing plaques; from
left to right: In memory of 5000 Jews of Dorohoi and other villages of
the vicinity who were transported on 11 November 1941to Transnistria,
there to die by being shot, by starvation, and by illness. Next: In
memory of our unknown Jewish brothers and sisters who were made into
soap labelled "R.I.F." (Reines Judishes Fetten = Pure Jewish Fat), and
others buried here. At right: In memory of seventy Jews who were
murdered on 1 July 1940 by Fascist cadres during the interment of Emil
Aroneanu of Bacau, on the 28th anniversary of the event, and in memory
of our esteemed martyrs, of eternal blessing. May Heaven avenge their
blood. May their souls be bound up with the living.
Three headstones bearing the surname Abramovici, from left to right:
Shmuel ben Chaim Abramovici, died 3 October 1943; Gusta (Golda) bat
Zvi-Eliezer Abramovici, died 23 January 1948; Yona ben Elimelekh
Abramovici, died 9 May 1945.
These seven pictures were taken during a side trip
from Dorohoi to towns in the vicinity. In the first four, which are
from Suceava, from the left: What appears to be an auditorium, with a
sign saying "Dom Polski" (Poland House); a church; a synagogue of
Moorish architecture, which looks to be in good condition, so that
there seems to be a Jewish community here; the entrance of the
synagogue: "How Filled With Awe Is This Place".
At the Left, a medieval castle. Center, a view from the castle to the
countryside. Right, along the road.
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